Lizzy's Sweet Kitchen

Over Memorial Day weekend, my parents, my husband, and I decided to take a trip to South Dakota’s Black Hills. The idea started when my mom said, “Can you believe your father has never seen Mount Rushmore?” I laughed because it felt so ironic. My dad has traveled all over the world and he loves visiting American landmarks, yet somehow one of the most famous had slipped through the cracks.

For me, the draw was different. I am working on visiting all 50 states and every U.S. national park, so South Dakota was already on my list. Between the state itself and its two parks, this trip felt like the perfect way to check a big one off. We based ourselves in the Black Hills from May 22 through May 26.

Trip Summary

1. May 22
   • Drive to South Dakota from Denver, CO
   • Saw Mount Rushmore
   • Stayed the night at Game State Lodge in Custer State Park
2. May 23
   • Buffalo Safari in Custer State Park
   • Drove the iconic Needles Highway
   • Natural Entrance Tour in Wind Cave National Park
   • Stayed the night at Game State Lodge in Custer State Park
3. May 24
   • Went to Wall Drug
   • Badlands National Park
   • Stayed the night at Game State Lodge in Custer State Park
4. May 25
   • Went to Devils Tower
   • Stayed the night at Sylvan Lake Lodge in Custer State Park
5. May 26
   • Saw Crazy Horse
   • Drove back to Denver, CO

Day 1 – Drive to South Dakota (May 22)

My husband and I drove up from Denver, an easy six hours. It also meant driving through Wyoming, which I will never complain about since it is my favorite state. I see Wyoming through rose-colored glasses, so the drive felt like it flew by.

We planned to meet my parents at Mount Rushmore around lunchtime, but first we stopped in Custer for sandwiches at a family-owned deli called Custer Deli. It was delicious and I would go back in a heartbeat.

When we finally got to Mount Rushmore, I was immediately struck by how not underwhelming it is. So many people had told me to temper my expectations, but I thought it was stunning. My dad even put on some patriotic music while we stood looking up at the four presidents. We took the Presidential Trail, which brings you closer to the monument, and reading the history along the way made it even better. To top it off, we lucked out with clear blue skies. A ranger told us the area had been socked in with fog for weeks, so we felt especially grateful.

That evening we checked into the State Game Lodge inside Custer State Park. We stayed in their newly renovated Eisenhower and Calvin Coolidge rooms, named because both presidents actually stayed there. In fact, Coolidge loved the area so much during his 1927 vacation that he extended his stay from a week to three months. There is even a story that staff stocked fish in the river for him daily so he would always have luck while fishing.

The rooms were gorgeous, fresh from renovation, and it almost felt like we were the first guests to enjoy them. Dinner, though, was another story. The restaurant at the lodge was rough. Our server was wonderful, but the food was so overcooked that we joked the chef must have once undercooked something so badly they have sworn off “medium” forever. Even the breakfast eggs were overdone. Considering the meal was pricey, it stung a little, but aside from that the lodge itself was fantastic.

Day 2 – Buffalo Safari, Needles Highway & Wind Cave (May 23)

We started the day bright and early with the Buffalo Safari Jeep Tour at 7:30 a.m., conveniently right next to the State Game Lodge. Even better, we were the only group signed up, which made it feel like our own private safari. Honestly, this ended up being one of my favorite parts of the entire trip.

Custer State Park is the 10th largest state park in the U.S. and it is full of wildlife. Every September they host a huge buffalo roundup to help manage the herd, which has around 1,300 to 1,400 bison. On our tour we saw bison everywhere, easily more than 500, plus lots of calves since it was spring. We also spotted pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs, mule deer, and more bird species than I could count. Being in the open jeep so close to the herds, safely of course, was amazing. Bison have always been one of my favorite animals, so this was a dream moment.

Since the weather was still clear that morning, we decided to drive the Needles Highway before the foggy days ahead. This scenic drive winds through granite spires and narrow rock tunnels that look like something out of a movie. We stopped at several overlooks, including Needles Eye Tunnel and Cathedral Spires, and each view seemed more impressive than the last. The Black Hills might be one of the best-kept secrets in the United States. I could not believe how beautiful it was.

In the afternoon we headed to Wind Cave National Park. Fun fact: South Dakota has two national parks, Wind Cave and Badlands, so I was excited to check the first one off my list. Wind Cave is one of the world’s longest caves, known for a rare formation called boxwork, which looks like a honeycomb made of stone. To visit, you need to sign up for a guided tour, and we chose the Natural Entrance Tour. Our ranger guide was fantastic and shared both the science of the cave and its cultural significance. For the Lakota people, Wind Cave is considered a sacred place, the site of their emergence story.

My husband teased that the cave was not very “pretty.” Compared to Mammoth Cave in Tennessee, Wind Cave is much drier and does not have the dramatic dripping stalactites. I loved it though. It felt otherworldly and unique in its own way.

That night we skipped the lodge restaurant and headed into town for dinner at Buglin’ Bull Restaurant and Sports Bar. I ordered an Elk burger and my mom got the salmon, which even passed her dietitian-approved standards, which is saying a lot.

Day 3 – Badlands & Wall Drug (May 24)

We hit the road early for Badlands National Park. On the way, it was impossible to ignore the endless billboards for Wall Drug. We started spotting them back in Wyoming, signs promising everything from five cent coffee to “Kids Love Wall Drug!” to “Free Ice Water.” After about the hundredth sign, we figured we had to stop.

Wall Drug started in 1931 when the owners began offering free ice water to weary travelers heading west. It worked, and today it is a sprawling tourist trap, general store, and roadside attraction. It reminded me of quirky shops in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, with rows of things no one needs but kids love, like toy rifles and raccoon hats. My dad picked up a coffee mug (he got one from almost every place we visited, don’t ask me why they don’t need anymore). I grabbed a postcard. We split some donuts and left, vowing never to return. Honestly, I’m happy with that, one-and-done kind of place. But hey, if Wall Drugs is your favorite, I’d genuinely like to meet you. I’m really curious about the person who loves that place.

Not long after leaving Wall Drug, the day took a turn. I hit something in the road and got a flat tire. Not exactly the detour we wanted before hiking in the Badlands. Luckily the rental car had a spare and we found a shop in Rapid City that could fix it later that afternoon. Note to self, do not rent from a company that does not have a location in the state you are visiting.

We still made it into Badlands around 10 a.m., which gave us plenty of time to explore before heading to the tire shop. The Badlands blew me away. The first thing you notice is the texture, layers of clay that crumble under your shoes. Early settlers called it the “bad lands” because the terrain was nearly impossible to cross. Wagon wheels broke, horses struggled, and the sticky clay made travel miserable.

We hiked a few trails, including Notch Trail and Door Trail. Both were short but scenic, with views that made us feel tiny in the sweeping landscape. For me, it was unlike any other park I had seen, raw, rugged, and full of quiet beauty.

After lunch at the visitor center, we headed back to Rapid City for the tire repair. While we waited, we found a Mexican restaurant nearby and enjoyed margaritas with chips and salsa. Not exactly a bad way to kill time.

That night we treated ourselves to dinner at Skogen Kitchen in Custer, and wow. This restaurant is a hidden gem. The owners are originally from Southern California and their menu puts most Denver spots to shame. I ordered the duck, which was flash-fried to a perfect crispy skin, and it might have been the best I have ever had. Truly, the best restaurant within 100 miles.

Day 4 – Devils Tower & Sylvan Lake (May 25)

On day four we road-tripped two hours west to Devils Tower in Wyoming. The weather was gloomy and rainy when we arrived, so we killed time with lunch at The Diamond Bar at Devils Tower. Elk burgers were the star of the menu and of course we had to try them.

By the time we reached the tower, the rain had lightened but the trails were still muddy. My dad, who is scheduled for knee replacement surgery later this year, insisted we take the steeper, slicker trail, Red Beds Trail, instead of the nice paved one. I worried he might slip and roll down the hill, not ideal, so we all went together, carefully navigating mud puddles and laughing at ourselves the whole way. It turned into one of those “memorable for the chaos” family moments.

Afterward, my husband and I circled back and tackled the easier paved loop, Devil’s Tower Trail, for better photos and a closer look at the tower. The loop is short, flat, and accessible—definitely one I’d recommend to anyone visiting. 

And if you’re a movie buff, you might recognize Devil’s Tower as the iconic location from Close Encounters of the Third Kind, a 1970s sci-fi classic. All four of us watched it over the 4th of July, and it was such a fun experience seeing the exact spot we’d visited just a couple of months earlier.

That evening we checked into Sylvan Lake Lodge inside Custer State Park. My dad wanted to try a second lodge in the park to compare. Compared to the Game Lodge, the rooms here felt a little dated, but the food more than made up for it. The chef, who introduced himself as Coyote, told us, “I am the fixer. I turn kitchens around.” He was not kidding. Dinner was excellent and the dining room had a cozy, lodge-like charm that made the evening feel special. Coyote needs to fix State Game Lodge kitchen next.

Day 5 – Crazy Horse (May 26)

Our last day was reserved for the Crazy Horse Memorial. I wish we had gone on the clear first day because by Monday the fog was so thick you could barely see the monument. Inside, we toured the museum, learned about the story of the monument, and watched a cultural performance by a Native American mother and her child who performed a traditional hoop dance. That was a highlight of the morning.

We waited in the car for over an hour, hoping the fog would lift, but no luck. We could just barely make out the outline of Crazy Horse from a distance. It was disappointing, but also a reason to come back. The project is massive and when completed it will be the largest mountain carving in the world, far bigger than Mount Rushmore. Even without a clear view, the story behind it is powerful and worth experiencing.

From there, we drove back to Denver to beat the holiday traffic, while my parents stayed behind for their flight from Rapid City. They later told us the fog never lifted that day, so I guess we did not miss much.

Overall

Before we left, a lot of people asked me, “Why South Dakota?” in that puzzled tone that implies, really, why there? Honestly, I was mostly going to cross a state and its national parks off my list. But after spending five days in the Black Hills, my answer has totally changed.

The Black Hills are one of the best-kept secrets in the United States. The area is full of beautiful scenery, abundant wildlife, rich Native American history, and a relaxed atmosphere that lets families truly enjoy time together. Unlike more crowded destinations, looking at you Jackson Hole, it does not feel overrun or overpriced.

This was one of the best trips I have taken with my parents, full of laughter, adventure, and a few mishaps that only made the stories better. I cannot wait for the next time I get back to the Black Hills.