Lizzy's Sweet Kitchen

This is part two of our Poland adventure! After exploring Bydgoszcz and Toruń, we made our way to Gdynia and Gdańsk for more family time and seaside views. If you missed part one in Bydgoszcz and Toruń, you can read it here.

Table of Contents

• Gdynia
• Gdańsk
• Saying Goodbye
• Conclusion

Trip Summary

1. August 25
   • Spent the day in Bydgoszcz & Toruń (Part 1 of the blog post here)
2. August 26
   • Took a train from Toruń to Gdynia
   • Brygida & Jospeh picked us up from the train station and served us an amazing meal!
   • Walked around Gdynia’s port and saw the Great Cross in Gdynia
3. August 27
   • Went into Gdańsk for the day
   • Ate at Pierogarnia Stary Młyn for lunch
4. August 28
   • Went to Gdańsk Beach
   • Left on a train for Wrocław

Gdynia (8/26)

After our breakfast we left Toruń and set our sights on Gdynia/Gdańsk. We stayed with my relative, Brygida, who lives in Gdynia, a large city right next to Gdańsk, in case you didn’t know. She was one of my grandma’s main contacts in Poland, and over the years they grew even closer as others in the family passed away. It meant a lot to me to visit her and her husband, Joseph, and spend time together.

They picked us up from the Gdynia train station and took us back to their home. On the way, they showed us around a bit by car, including Brygida’s old house, where my grandma stayed when she visited Poland in the 70s. That moment meant so much to me. It’s been three years since my grandma passed away, and she holds such a special place in my heart. Her faith, kindness, and spunk were inspiring, and I miss her deeply. I wouldn’t have been there with my relatives if not for her, and that thought made the visit even more meaningful.

After dinner, they took us to Gdynia’s port. From there we could see Gdańsk in the distance, along with dozens of ships, while breathing in the crisp Baltic Sea air. They told us this was actually the same port my great-grandmother had sailed from when she immigrated to the US. She was young, single, and pregnant at the time, a brave, strong woman I can hardly imagine. Standing there, trying to picture her courage in that moment, was something I’ll never forget.

We also visited Great Cross (Gdynia), where a beautifully lit cross overlooked the city from high above. The view of Gdynia at night was stunning. To end the evening, we walked along the water together, soaking in the quiet beauty.

Gdańsk (8/27)

The next day, Wyatt and I wanted to spend time in Gdańsk. Brygida and Joseph kindly drove us into the city and, before dropping us off, took us to Katedra Oliwska. This church was breathtaking. I’ll admit, after seeing so many European churches, they sometimes start to blend together. But this one was different. The main altar has a “heavenly baroque composition” of angels circling above with other symbolic details woven in. The enormous organ, which plays several concerts a day, filled the church with music that was calming and powerful at the same time. Angels carved into the organ even “played” trumpets as part of the performance, which gave the whole experience a playful, interactive feel. It was one of those moments where you really feel God’s presence in a space. I was so grateful they brought us there, because it’s not close to the city center and we wouldn’t have found it on our own.

From there, Wyatt and I set out to explore Gdańsk. We walked along the Motława River, the picture-perfect part of town with colorful architecture reflecting in the water and rows of cafés, shops, and restaurants. We stopped at the Stary Żuraw port crane, once used for trade, then wandered into Długi Targ (the Long Market) where we saw Neptune’s Fountain.

Much of Gdańsk was destroyed during World War II, but like in many places in Poland, the reconstruction was done with such care and detail that it truly feels like stepping back in time.

At St. Mary’s Church, we happened to arrive at noon and caught the astronomical clock show. The clock displays the time, date, moon phase, zodiac signs, and a calendar of saints. At noon, a small procession appears with Adam and Eve, the Three Kings, the Apostles, and even Death. It was intricate, fascinating, and unlike anything we had ever seen.

Naturally, I couldn’t leave without visiting Mariacka Street (the famous Amber Street). Gdańsk is known as the amber capital of the world, and there are amber shops everywhere you look. For me, jewelry is the perfect travel souvenir, it’s small, personal, and easy to carry. I found the most beautiful pair of hummingbird earrings, which felt meant to be since I love hummingbirds.

For lunch, we tried Pierogarnia Stary Młyn, a Polish chain known for baked pierogi. Normally I avoid chains when traveling, but we heard the baked ones were worth trying. They were more like little calzones. The cheese-filled pierogi, especially paired with cranberry sauce, were gooey, mild, and delicious, a cheese lover’s dream. The others were just okay, though. I’m glad we tried it, but I wouldn’t go back. Overall: 3/5.

We spent the rest of the afternoon sightseeing: the Bread Bridge (“Bridge of Love”), Small Mill, Highland Gate, and the Great Armoury. We also stopped at the Basilica of St. Bridget, a stunning church filled with amber sculptures. The Amber Altar is still under construction, but already the detail is incredible. The church also contains amber memorials to the Katyn massacre and even a crypt with 17th-century bones that was only discovered in 2010. Crypts aren’t really my thing, but it was undeniably impressive.

Later, we visited the World War II Museum, which is often called one of the best museums in Poland. It was extraordinary, both heartbreaking and eye-opening. I thought I knew a lot about World War II, but I learned so much more here. The exhibits cover every angle of the war, from its beginnings through the aftermath, touching on nearly every country involved. The amount of detail was staggering; after four hours, we realized we were only halfway through. It’s the kind of museum you could easily spend two days exploring. We didn’t want to miss our pickup time with my relatives, so we had to move faster through the later sections, but it still left a deep impact. I can’t recommend it enough, easily one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. 10/5!

On the way there, we also came across the Defenders of the Polish Post Office Monument. The post office in Gdańsk is considered one of the first battles of World War II, where Polish postal workers defended the building against German forces for 15 hours. It’s a story not often taught in US classrooms, but one worth learning. I’m glad we stumbled upon it and could pay our respects.

Before heading back to Gdynia, we had time for a quick café stop on the Motława at OMNI KAISER Patisserie. Wyatt ordered a caramel cheesecake that was out of this world, perfectly balanced with flaky sea salt (4.8/5). I went for a pistachio croissant I had been eyeing earlier in the day. It was buttery, flaky, and filled with pistachio cream. The flavor was lighter than I like, but still good. I’d give it a 3.7/5.

That evening we had another wonderful dinner with Brygida and Joseph, talking about our travels, sharing stories, and just enjoying each other’s company.

Saying Goodbye (8/28)

The next morning came too quickly. Our train back to Wrocław left from Gdynia at 11 a.m., with a transfer in Gdańsk. Brygida and Joseph speak very little English, and Wyatt and I speak very little Polish, so we relied heavily on translation apps during our visit. Conversation mode became our best friend, and with the help of hand gestures (and a game of charades or two), we managed beautifully.

They were the kind of hosts anyone would be inspired by, showering us with love, generosity, and meaningful gifts. They made us feel like the most important people in the world, and I’ll treasure that memory forever. Was it sometimes uncomfortable not sharing a language? Absolutely. But that’s the thing about traveling, you’re supposed to step outside your comfort zone. If you don’t, you’re not doing it right.

We had about three hours in Gdańsk before our transfer, so we decided to head to the beach. The forecast had predicted cold, rainy weather, but instead we had sunshine and warmth the whole time we were there. We didn’t have swimsuits, but we brought our Kindles, read by the water, dipped our toes in the Baltic Sea, and enjoyed a packed lunch from Brygida and Joseph before heading back to the train station. It was the perfect end to our time in northern Poland.

Conclusion

This trip was more than just a getaway for Wyatt and me. It was a chance for me to reconnect with family I hadn’t seen in ten years, and for Wyatt to experience a side of my life he had never known. We were blown away by the beauty that central and northern Poland have to offer, but even more so by the generosity of my relatives. The connections we made are ones we hope to carry forward for generations to come, just like my grandma did.