On my husband’s and my way to Budapest, we decided to stop in Prague. He had been before, but I had never been, and if I’m being honest, it was never really on my list of places to go. It just didn’t pull me in like some of the other destinations on my wishlist, but I also hadn’t done any research on it in the first place. Honestly, shame on me. Spoiler alert: I absolutely loved Prague.
Table of Contents
Trip Summary
- September 18
- Arrived to Prague
- Explored Prague’s Old Town and Jewish Quarter
- Dinner at U Parlamentu
- September 19
- Breakfast at Pekárna U Kalendů
- Explored Prague Castle Grounds, St. Vitus Cathedral
- Lunch at La Famiglia (focaccia sandwiches)
- Dinner at Original pivnice Budvarka Dejvice
- September 20
- Went to Český Krumlov
- Lunch at Bistro 53 Beer Point
- Dinner at Drunken Coffee
- September 21
- Breakfast takeout at Eska Bakery
- Left Prague
Day 1 – First Day in Prague: Gothic Views & Chimney Cake Bliss
We said goodbye to our month and a half in Poland bright and early on Thursday morning. I absolutely loved our time there; it had a special connection for me because of my family roots and having relatives still living in Poland. We were eager to continue our European travels though, so we took a bus to Prague. Note, if you are someone who gets motion sickness, this was rough, and I don’t recommend it. However, it was about five times cheaper than the train, so it wasn’t too bad at the end of the day.
Like I said before, I hadn’t done much research on Prague before going. Honestly, I wasn’t all that excited about it. Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t in a bad mood or didn’t want to go, but I was just indifferent. Then, the night before we left, I looked up some of the city’s history and architecture, since I knew that was one of the main attractions, and I started to get excited. I love gothic, dramatic architecture, and Prague’s style was right up my alley.
When we arrived, it was around midday. We checked into our Airbnb and walked around, visiting Old Town Square. Right away, I was taken aback by Church of Our Lady before Týn in the Old Town Square. It was absolutely gorgeous and a perfect way to ease into the gothic architecture if you even need that kind of easing in. I was instantly googly-eyed over the city.
We happened to be near the top of the hour, so we stopped to watch Prague Astronomical Clock. Honestly, I wasn’t that impressed, but we weren’t in the right spot to really see it and appreciate all of its beauty and craftsmanship. It’s also important to remember that the clock’s hourly show was created in 1410, which is incredibly advanced for its time. The clock itself is absolutely beautiful, and it was still amazing to see in person.
Afterwards we walked down Pařížská. I’m not really a designer-brand person, but it’s always fun to look sometimes. Plus, we got some Nespresso pods and free coffee there, so it was definitely worth the trip.
We then made our way to the Jewish Quarter, first admiring the Statue of Franz Kafka and then heading toward the river. We love walking along the river together; it always brings us so much peace and feels romantic. The river also offers a great view of the castle.
By this point, it was around dinnertime. On our way, we stumbled upon an adorable mug shop called Vanda & Valerie – Handmade ceramic (Address: Kaprova 52, 110 00 Staré Město, Czechia) that I have to share about. We didn’t purchase anything since we’re traveling for a whole year and the only thing I’m collecting is postcards, but I had to mention it for anyone looking for a cute mug or ceramic piece from Prague. I vowed that if I ever come back to Prague and the shop is still there, I’ll be bringing one home with me.
For dinner we went to U Parlamentu. They actually had a bit of a wait, so we decided to grab chimney cakes first. I guess that’s one of the perks of being an adult, you get to choose your own dinner order and have dessert before your meal. But I’ll admit, it still pains me a little to do it. Thank you, Darlene, my dietitian mother, for that (and truly, I’m thankful for the healthy food values she instilled in me).
I know there are a lot of bad or overpriced chimney cakes in Prague, and I was determined not to let that happen to me. It pains me to feel like a tourist, so I tend to act a little self-righteous about finding the right spot, you know? Kidding, sort of. But I really hate wasting money on mediocre food. We went to Trdelník & Coffee in the Jewish Quarter, and they clearly know what they’re doing there. Wow, it was absolutely amazing. We loved it so much that we actually went back the next day.
We got vanilla ice cream with strawberries and Nutella. Now, I’m more of a vanilla and fruit girl when it comes to desserts, not a chocolate person, so the Nutella was mostly for Wyatt. But was it painful to eat Nutella? Absolutely not. Let’s be real, it was delicious. I also feel like that’s the original pairing for Nutella, though Italians, feel free to correct me on that one.
Back to the chimney cake, the dough was perfectly soft with a light crust of coarse sugar on the outside. It was firm enough to hold the ice cream but not hard, which I think is what makes it stand out. Honestly, I didn’t even try another place because I was so happy with Trdelník & Coffee. I didn’t need to. Sometimes, as my friend Colleen says, “it do be like that.” Everything about this place was perfect, and I highly recommend it.
Now for some nutrition, well, a different kind of nutrition, we finally went back to U Parlamentu for dinner. We each ordered a beer (because did you even go to Prague if you didn’t have a beer with every meal?) and got the pork knuckle and beer sausage. We had heard pork knuckle was a famous Czech dish, so we had to try it, and it did not disappoint. The skin was perfectly crispy and hard (we didn’t eat it), but it kept all the juices in the meat, making it incredibly tender, juicy, and falling apart. It came with a bunch of fun sides that really enhanced the flavor, like red onion, pickles, and peppers.
The beer sausage also blew us away, which was a bit of a surprise, but the sauce was divine. Whatever they’re putting in that sauce, I could honestly drink it. I might have even liked it more than the pork knuckle, but that’s just the sauce girl in me talking.
We finished our meal with two traditional Czech liqueurs: Becherovka, an herbal liqueur, and Hustopečská Mandlovka, an almond liqueur. We liked both very much. We absolutely loved this restaurant and highly recommend it, the prices were great too. Easily a 4.8 out of 5.
Afterward, we wandered around Prague some more, taking in the sights and walking across the Charles Bridge, which is absolutely beautiful and romantic at night. I think it’s probably one of the top attractions in Prague, along with the castle, it’s truly amazing. There are so many statues along the bridge to admire.
We eventually continued walking south along the river. I noticed these cafes that were originally ice storage spaces converted into cozy cafes and restaurants, and I knew I wanted to stop by. It might be a bit of a tourist trap, and the drinks were slightly more expensive than most places, but nothing outrageous. The setting was so unique, and I highly recommend checking them out.
They have these huge circular glass doors that are probably about 30 feet high. I felt like I had stepped into a scene from a movie, maybe Alice in Wonderland or Thumbelina. That whimsical, larger-than-life feeling was probably why I wanted to go so badly.
Day 2 – Prague Castle Day: Iconic Sights & Czech Eats
The next day we really only had the castle and cathedral planned, so we had a leisurely morning and got breakfast at Pekárna U Kalendů. It was honestly a farther walk than I realized, but it was very worth it. Prague has some of the best food and bakeries, so I had to make the most of it.
I honestly don’t know the names of most of the baked goods we got, but I had an almond croissant and a Skiřicová babka. Wyatt got a dánský koláček and a ham and cheese pastry, though we cannot remember the exact name. Everything was, without a doubt, a showstopper. It was hard to choose because everything looked amazing.
I forgot how wonderful almond croissants are. It was honestly twice the size it looked in the window. It was beautifully flaky and coated with almonds and frangipane. I loved it, and it made me realize why I don’t get these more often. The Skiřicová babka reminded me of the babka bread I have made before. A big difference was the filling. On top it had sweetened cream cheese icing, which I thought was all there was, but to my surprise, it was also filled with icing inside. It is definitely made for cream cheese icing lovers, which includes both my husband and me. It was the perfect morning treat.
Since I had both heavy breakfast items, so I won’t pair them together again because of how full I was, but each of them was superb and delicious. Wyatt’s dánský koláček was a beautiful love story of flaky pastry dough and sour cherries, our favorite kind of fruit. Of course, being from Michigan, I was happy to find a husband just as obsessed with cherries as I am. No notes, it was amazing. His ham and cheese pastry was equally wonderful and helped balance all the sweetness we had.
This bakery easily earns a 5 out of 5. They also have a restaurant right next to the bakery, which we didn’t go to, but if you are looking for a place to eat in Prague, it also has high praise.
After our amazing breakfast, we set off to the castle and cathedral area on the other side of the bridge. All my years of living in Denver, hiking and walking up Red Rocks, prepared me for this. It was a steep walk, I am not going to lie, so maybe think about how granny will manage before you go.
The castle was a little confusing, honestly, because all of a sudden we were on the grounds. Maybe we went through the backside, but I did not feel like there was a grand entrance anyway. When we got to the cathedral, my mouth absolutely dropped. I said out loud that I love all the intense spires and gothic architecture. It was a work of art. Honestly, if you only do one thing in Prague, which is a shame because this city won my heart, let it be the cathedral.
We actually did not go inside because it was pretty pricey, and honestly, I am kind of done with looking inside churches at this point in our Europe segment. I felt like the real beauty was on the outside. If anyone feels differently, feel free to tell me I am wrong, but we spent a good amount of time just looking at it from the outside and soaking in the scale, detail, and beauty of the cathedral.
Afterward, we continued walking through the castle grounds and realized it was lunchtime. It was hard to pick a place. We both wanted something easy, but most of the options were sit-down restaurants. Finally, we came across a small Italian cafe called La Famiglia, which I actually can’t find online. They offered focaccia sandwiches, which are basically a love letter to me. I got the stracciatella, and Wyatt got the meat option. Anything with stracciatella on focaccia, say no more, I am getting it.
Mine was on rosemary focaccia paired with a tasty pesto, leafy greens, stracciatella and sun dried tomatoes. Honestly, mine was better than Wyatt’s because of the pesto. Wyatt’s had mozzarella and a variety of Italian meats, also on rosemary bread.
After our quick lunch, we walked around Petřín Gardens and enjoyed some greenery. There is a point of interest, Petrin Tower, but we decided not to go see it.
After walking around the park, we were in the mood for, you guessed it, a beer in Czech, what a surprise. We went to V Kolkovně in the area of Prague that we enjoyed the day before. I actually got a wine because, through and through, I am a wine drinker. Wyatt got a tank beer, which means it was brewed in the last 72 hours and is extremely fresh.
After spending some time relaxing, we figured it was time for dinner. But we were also next to the place where we had a chimney cake the day before, Trdelník & Coffee. Our gears were turning, and the great thing about being an adult is you get to pick how you eat, so we got dessert before dinner again. Shhh, don’t tell my mother.
For dinner we wanted to try Czech goulash. I found a place across the river, called Original pivnice Budvarka Dejvice, which was a decent walk but very worth it. Everything was so good. We ordered beef tartare, fried gouda cheese with buttery grenaille potatoes and tartar sauce, and beef goulash. It was honestly too much food because we had not come hungry enough, the chimney cake was calling, but it was absolutely amazing, and we even took some food back with us since our Airbnb had a fridge.
The beef tartare was incredible. It was served with an array of toppings and mix-ins including paprika, garlic, onions, pepper, mustard, and ketchup, along with a huge serving of bread. I love tartare, and I loved all the different accompaniments it came with. It was an absolutely wonderful dish and very filling. Easily 5 out of 5.
The beef goulash was also amazing. The meat was very tender and had a nice kick to it. They did warn us it was spicy goulash, so no surprises there, and we love spice. The sauce was thick and rich, just how I like it. The goulash was fantastic and also earns a 5 out of 5.
This being my first time trying goulash, I would take this rating with a grain of salt, since there are probably great versions all over the city. Still, I would go back to this restaurant for it. I am just a tourist at the end of the day.
Side note: The age-old debate, Hungarian or Czech goulash? Technically Austria has their own version, but let’s just stick with those two. I have had all three, technically, and by far Czech is my favorite. It depends on what kind of sauce thickness you like, but if you leave Czechia without trying goulash, shame on you.
Like I said, I love a thick sauce. If you come at me with gravy on Thanksgiving, I will walk away. I am not a gravy-thick person, but if my Midwest self would describe it, I am a homemade Midwest ranch-from-your-local-pizza-place sauce consistency lover. If you do not get that, I am sorry, you just do not know what I am saying. It borders between water and gravy, the perfect middle ground in consistency. That is exactly what this Czech goulash sauce was.
Hungarian goulash is so watery to me, it is like the drained leftover liquid from Skyline chili, no disrespect. As my friend Colleen described, it just does not have the same perfect consistency.
Anyways, back to the meal. My cousin told me to get the fried cheese in Czech. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love cheese more than the next person, but since this meal was already very filling, I think this was the dish we did not need to order. We felt like we had to try it since it was our last dinner in Prague before heading to Český Krumlov tomorrow.
It was still pretty good. I would give it a 3.5 out of 5. Nothing special, but deep-fried cheese with tartar sauce is always a big yes. Overall, the restaurant was a 4.8 out of 5, with great service, atmosphere, and food.
Afterwards, we walked back and got ready to leave nice and early in the morning to go to Český Krumlov.
Day 3 – Český Krumlov: A Fairytale Day Trip
We woke up early to take a bus from Prague to Český Krumlov. We debated spending the night in Český Krumlov but decided against it because everything we read said it is really only a day trip. Plus, to get to Budapest we would have to return to Prague anyway, so it felt pointless to move all of our stuff and still have a connection in Prague.
Wyatt was looking at different cities to visit in the Czech Republic besides Prague, and that is how we landed on Český Krumlov. It seemed like a charming town and a great way to see more of the Czech countryside.
The town is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has preserved its medieval feel remarkably well. Český Krumlov is known for its winding cobblestone streets, colorful Renaissance and Baroque buildings, and the stunning Český Krumlov Castle that overlooks the town. The castle complex includes a tower with panoramic views, beautiful gardens, and a Baroque theatre. The Vltava River winds through the town, adding to its fairytale charm, and there are several museums, galleries, and quaint cafés to explore.
It is honestly a pretty small town, so we managed to see many of the main sites within a few hours, including Church of St. Vitus, Fountain and Plague Column, . We stopped for a long lunch at Bistro 53 Beer Point. Wyatt got a burger and I got a wrap. Honestly, it was not good. I love wraps and have been craving one for a while, but I haven’t found many on menus during our time in Europe. I haven’t really sought them out either, so I know that is on me.
Anyway, the wrap was more like a burrito than a traditional wrap, but not really a burrito either since there were no beans or rice. It was just a grossly large wrap. The pork was very greasy, especially with the added cheese. I felt physically sick after eating it and then walking to the castle, so I cannot recommend this place. The lemonade, however, was good.
After lunch, we made our way to Český Krumlov Castle, which is one of the largest castle complexes in Central Europe and offers panoramic views of the entire town. The castle is huge and took up the rest of our day. We enjoyed exploring every area of the grounds and took our time, which is one of the nice things about Český Krumlov. The town is so small that we didn’t feel rushed to see anything.
We bought tickets that included both the museum and the tower. The museum was a bit of a snore, and I cannot recommend it. It focused on the family that lived there, so if you are interested in aristocratic history, it might be for you, but I am usually not invested in lesser-known families. Typing that out makes it sound harsh, but the truth is harsh.
The tower, however, was completely worth it. Some people suggested skipping it because they thought the view was not that impressive. Get your eyes checked, bucko. It was beautiful, and I am usually the person who prefers staying on the ground. Český Krumlov is an extremely picture-perfect town, so seeing it from above, with the river and winding streets below, was incredible.
We also went down to see the beer moat, which is just a bear sitting there enjoying some snacks. It was cute, though the bear was shaped like a friend rather than a fierce animal. Nothing scary, at least not now; maybe it was different back in the day. It felt like a zoo exhibit, but I still had fun watching it.
After the castle, it was around 4 p.m., and we had a 7 p.m. bus back to Prague. We decided to relax at a café called Drunken Coffee. I got a coffee, and what was supposed to be a short stop turned into two hours. We even joked, “Should we just get dinner here?” We weren’t that hungry after my insanely big wrap, so we split some hummus and a toasty. It was okay to good, but I wasn’t looking for anything special.
After our small dinner, we still had an hour before our bus, so we decided to walk around and enjoy the charm of the city before heading to the bus station. I found a delicious ice cream stand and had a strawberry and vanilla swirl ice cream, my two favorite flavors. The U.S. really needs to get on that combination.
We then headed back to the bus and got back to Prague around 11 p.m., completely exhausted and fast asleep.
Day 4 – Prague Send-Off: One Last Bakery Run
We had a train at about 11 a.m. the next day, but I wasn’t done with Prague quite yet, at least not the amazing food. I wanted to go to Eska Bakery. I had kept seeing it recommended, but it is east of the area we stayed in and most of the tourist spots. I packed my backpack, told Wyatt I would meet him at the train station, and set out like a woman on a mission to get baked goods.
I arrived right at opening, practically waiting impatiently in line, and asked the employee what to get. I unfortunately cannot remember the names of everything, but everything was exceptional. I got two buns: Buchta tvarohová and a plum-filled one. They were fun breads filled with sweet cheese, which feels like a hug every time I have it, and plum, which has become one of my favorite flavors in baked items since starting our trip abroad. They were amazing and a bread lover’s dream.
I also got a little cheese bite just for fun. Again, I don’t remember the name, but it was really good, cheese and almost reminded me of cheese pizza with some tomato in it. The dough was caramelized and flaky, the perfect little bite.
Lastly, I got an egg toast that the lady recommended as a traditional Czech dish. It was a piece of sourdough fried with an egg seal all around and topped with a variety of vegetables, including tomatoes, pickles (our favorite topping), zucchini, carrots, and a mustard spread. It was delicious and a delightful twist on a normal piece of toast with toppings. We really enjoyed it.
Note that I did walk a bit to the train station with these, so that is why in the photo they look a little tossed around. They were beautiful when I first got them. The bakery was absolutely fantastic, leaning less on the flaky butter side and more on the hearty bread side. Easily 4.9 out of 5.
Overall
I absolutely loved Prague. The city, the people, the sights, and especially the food blew me away. I didn’t have many expectations going in, but I knew it was a major destination, especially a few years ago. I will be back, and next time with an empty stomach. I strongly encourage anyone on the fence about visiting to go, you won’t regret it. It is a beautiful city with so much to see and has that classic European charm everyone is always searching for in a destination.
As for Český Krumlov, it was a picture-perfect town, but I don’t personally feel the need to go back. I think whether you would enjoy it depends on the person. I didn’t dislike it at all, but it is an extremely touristy town designed for visitors. I am glad we went, but I wouldn’t say it is a must-see.
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