For part one of our trip in Warsaw, click here.
Table of Contents
Trip Summary
- September 5
- Explored Helsinki, Finland
- Stayed at EuroHostel
- September 6
- Took a ferry to Tallinn from Helsinki
- Explored Tallinn’s Old Town
- Stayed at Fat Margaret’s Hostel
- September 7
- Foodie day west of Old Town Tallinn
- Kiek in de Kök Museum & Bastion Tunnels
- September 8
- Took a bus to Riga Latvia
- Explored Riga’s Old Town
- Stayed at The Naughty Squirrel
- September 9
- Took a bus to Vilnius, Lithuania
- Explored Vilnius
- Took a night bus back to Poland
Day 1: Helsinki, Finland (9/5)
We left Warsaw early in the morning and flew to Helsinki with Finnair. I have to mention this, on the plane I tried their famous blueberry juice, and it was absolutely delicious. If you fly Finnair, don’t skip it! I’m still craving it as I type this.
We were so excited to finally start exploring the Baltic region, an area of the world we hadn’t known many people to visit personally. At one point, we even considered making Tallinn, Estonia our base, but ultimately decided against it since it was a bit too far north for our route.
Since we only had about 18 hours in Helsinki (we arrived on a Friday and caught the ferry to Tallinn the next morning), we planned for a simple, relaxed day. After landing, we took the train into the city and checked into EuroHostel, booking a private room. It was simple but perfect for our short stay. The shared bathrooms turned out to be no issue, with surprisingly nice showers and some of the best water quality in the world (my hair was so grateful after weeks in Poland!). A highlight was the on-site sauna, very Finnish and something we both enjoyed. The beds were hard, but fine for one night. Overall: 4.8/5, a great budget option.
After a quick check-in at our hostel, we dropped off our bags and headed straight to the Malware Museum. Wyatt had spotted it on LinkedIn and was immediately intrigued, so of course, we had to check it out. Unfortunately, we learned upon arrival that it’s only open on weekends. Luckily, the front desk staff were incredibly kind and let us explore the lobby, which had several pieces of the exhibit on display.
If you have any interest in tech, cybersecurity, or digital history, I’d still recommend putting it on your list. It was fascinating to see malware “art” spanning different decades, showcasing how the digital threats of the past now look almost nostalgic. Even the bathroom was quirky, it had an audio track playing people reading phishing emails aloud in Finnish, which was equal parts eerie and clever. Even though we didn’t get the full experience, it was still a surprising highlight of our time in Helsinki.
From there, we made our way to Temppeliaukio Church (also called the Rock Church), which was at the top of my Helsinki list. I know some people say that after traveling through Europe, churches and castles can start to blur together, but I am so glad we went. This one instantly became one of my favorites in all of Europe.
The church came to be after an architectural competition in the 1960s, and it’s one of the most unique I’ve ever seen. Built directly into solid rock, it blends rugged stone walls with warm wooden accents and a striking copper dome. The ceiling is designed with glass and wood that let natural sunlight pour in, illuminating the space in such a peaceful way. I personally feel closest to God when I look up at the sky, so being in a church that literally opened to the heavens felt incredibly moving. We sat for a while in silence, just praying and soaking in the beauty of the space.
After leaving the Rock Church, we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring some of Helsinki’s most iconic spots: Kauppatori Market Square, Senate Square, and the stunning Uspenski Cathedral. It was a great way to get a feel for the city’s mix of history, architecture, and local life. Along the way, we picked up some candy (because when in the Nordics, you have to try the sweets, especially since Sweden and Finland are famous for them). I was in absolute heaven! I really shouldn’t eat too many because of my jaw, but this was one of those “worth the risk” moments.
By the evening, we were tired from a full day of traveling and sightseeing, so instead of heading out to a restaurant, we grabbed a simple dinner from the grocery store. I know that doesn’t sound glamorous, but honestly, it was exactly what we needed. Long travel days sometimes call for slowing down, and it felt nice not to pressure ourselves to do everything. This trip is a marathon, a whole year of traveling, not a quick 5K, so giving ourselves that grace is important.
Overall, we really enjoyed our short time in Finland. Next time, we’d love to explore beyond the capital and experience more of the country’s wild side, its lakes, forests, and endless nature. And of course, I still have two more Nordic countries waiting on my list: Norway and Sweden!
Day 2: Tallinn, Estonia – Arrival & First Impressions (9/6)
The next day, we left Helsinki for Tallinn, Estonia, taking the Tallink Silja Line ferry. And wow, calling it a “ferry” is seriously underselling it. This was basically a massive cruise ship! My jaw dropped the moment we boarded. The ship had three levels open to passengers, plus decks for cars, and it was packed with people.
We started the morning with breakfast at the onboard café, smoked salmon toast and panna cotta (I couldn’t resist). Then we explored the ship, which had everything: a kids’ area, first-class seating, five or more different restaurants and lounges, an observation deck, a back deck beer/pub area, and a huge shopping area with clothes, candy, and toiletries. Honestly, it was so much more than we expected. I had pictured a tiny ferry, like the “Catch the Cat” to Mackinac Island, so I was laughing at my own assumption the entire time.
We spent most of the journey in the enclosed glass pub area, enjoying beers and garlic bread while gazing peacefully at the water. Everything we had was absolutely delicious, and the calm 2.5-hour ride was the perfect way to transition to our third country of the trip, and the first stop in the Baltics!
We were so excited to explore Tallinn. Having seen countless videos and read about it online, we had even considered making it our home base. To soak it all in, we planned for 2.5 days in the city. Upon arrival, we dropped our luggage at Fat Margaret’s Hostel, which turned out to be a solid choice.
We booked a private room, which I always appreciate, but the shared bathroom setup wasn’t ideal, just one toilet and one shower for the whole floor. Thankfully, we never had to wait, though the tiny shower and tricky door were less than convenient. The hostel also had a sauna, but with limited morning hours unless you paid extra, we had to adjust our schedule. Overall, I’d give it a 4.5/5, mainly because we got lucky with the bathroom.
Exploring Tallinn’s Old Town
Our first stop in Tallinn was the Old Town, and we headed straight for the main square. Tallinn’s medieval Old Town is extremely walkable, you can easily get from point A to point B in about 20 minutes, making it perfect for a relaxed stroll.
We started with pancakes in the square, at Kooker Raekoja plats, a sweet introduction to Tallinn’s foodie scene. I knew Tallinn had a reputation as a foodie city, so I was determined to make the most of our time here.
Over the course of the day, we wandered through Kohtu 2, Raekoja plats, Hellemann Tower and Town Wall Walkway, St. Catherine’s Passage, Katariina käik, and Kiek in de Kök Museum & Bastion Tunnels grounds. Every corner of the city felt like stepping back in time. The architecture is breathtaking, with cobblestone streets, colorful facades, and historic buildings that make just walking around an activity in itself. We took our time, relaxed, and soaked in the scenery—it was one of those cities where every street is a photo opportunity.
For dinner, we went to Cado, which was incredible! I’ll dive deeper into all of our food adventures in a separate Tallinn food blog post [linked here once published (soon!)], but suffice it to say that our first day set the tone: Tallinn is a city that takes both history and cuisine seriously.
Day 3: Tallinn – Foodie Adventures (9/7)
The next day, we planned to head west of the city. We started the morning with a sauna at the hostel, which naturally took us right up to almost lunchtime. Sauna first, food later, Finnish priorities!
On our walk to The Kurze, we stumbled upon the train station gift shop and discovered they had wine gums! If you don’t know what wine gums are, you need to try them. They’re originally from the UK, but Wyatt’s family had introduced me to them before, and I was instantly in heaven. Just when I thought it couldn’t get better, we spotted the Balti Jaama Turg market across the street, and decided to check it out.
Now, here comes the controversial part: I usually don’t think markets are that impressive. Seriously. I know some of you are thinking, “Liz, markets are for locals, not tourists!” But let me tell you, most of the time when I go to a “famous” city market, it’s way overhyped. People say, “Go to the market, get snacks, see local life!” And then you get there, and it’s…fine. No, actually—I’m going to make enemies here, they suck. But this market? Oh no. This market was actually amazing.
There was a classic produce pavilion, permanent shops selling chocolates, art, and all kinds of knickknacks. We even went into a chocolate shop and grabbed Illy coffee, which made me extremely happy. But then, oh my, we went down the stairs, and entered what can only be described as meat heaven. High-quality meat of every cut and type imaginable, plus a dried meat section. I kept wandering from stall to stall, completely blown away. I saw the prettiest figs of my life, and I got sad thinking, “Why isn’t this market in Denver?” Everything was just so beautiful.
As if that wasn’t enough, we found a Kalev Balti Jaama šokolaadipood candy outlet that seemed to be everywhere in Tallinn. The prices were shocking! We stocked up on hard candies we’d tried the night before, plus chocolates and biscuits. I wanted to buy everything, but somehow I exercised a shred of restraint. Every chocolate we’ve eaten since has been amazing, so trust me, this brand is worth seeking out.
Later that night, we came back to the market’s food hall for dinner, which was already planned. Honestly, if you’re a foodie like me, this area is life-changing. Walking through, tasting, seeing everything, it’s emotional. I don’t say that lightly. If you go to Tallinn and you love food, this market is a must-see.
Kiek in de Kök Museum & Bastion Tunnels
We had planned to visit the Kiek in de Kök Museum & Bastion Tunnels, so we made our way back to the Old Town. As luck would have it, it was another free museum day, what are the chances that every museum we wanted to see this trip happened to have a free day while we were there? Honestly, this sounded amazing at first…until we got inside.
Turns out, most of the history we were interested in was blocked off to the public that day because of crowd limitations. The above-ground museum focused mainly on residents from the 1930s and the building’s time as a café. Honestly? Pretty boring. The one saving grace was the view over Old Town, which was absolutely gorgeous. My tip: avoid visiting on a free day if you want the full experience, it can actually be more frustrating than helpful.
It wasn’t a total loss, though, because the Bastion Tunnels were still open. These caverns were fascinating, with a long and varied history: they’ve been bomb shelters, punk hideouts in the 1980s, and even homes for homeless people in the 1990s. Exploring them was hands-down the highlight of the visit and made the trip worthwhile.
Afterwards, we rounded out the day with dinner and drinks back at the food hall of the market we visited earlier, soaking in the lively atmosphere and reflecting on everything we’d seen in Tallinn. Again, all of the food adventures in Tallinn will be in this Tallinn food blog post [linked here once published (soon!)].
Day 4: Riga, Latvia – Half Day (9/8)
The next morning, we only had time for a quick bakery stop before catching our bus to Riga, Latvia. We had planned for just half a day in Riga, since there didn’t seem to be much that couldn’t be seen in a short amount of time. The bus ride from Tallinn to Riga was easy and comfortable, taking about four hours.
We checked into The Naughty Squirrel, a lively hostel filled with funny signs and sayings. It quickly became one of my favorites of the trip thanks to its welcoming staff and great local tips. The hostel had a very social vibe (perfect if you’re looking to meet other travelers), and the bathroom situation was a dream, at least five toilets on our floor alone. With its central location, friendly atmosphere, and thoughtful touches, I’d definitely stay here again.
Exploring Riga & Discovering Latvian Sweet treats
After checking in, we headed out to explore the sites of Riga, and right away I was in awe of the city’s architecture. I had seen photos and videos, but nothing compares to seeing it in person. The detail, the style, it’s absolutely stunning. Honestly, the architecture alone is worth a trip to Riga, and I think it’s some of my favorite in the world. We went to House of the Black Heads and St. Peter’s Church.
The city is very walkable, and we found ourselves enjoying the riverfront. Walking along the water is always a favorite of ours; back in Chicago, we used to stroll the river in the West Loop during lunch breaks when we worked together, so riverfronts hold a special place in our hearts.
We made our way to the Old Riga Market, but honestly, it was just a typical market and left me a bit underwhelmed, nothing like the incredible market we found in Tallinn. If you have limited time in Riga, I’d probably skip this one.
Afterward, we returned to the hostel to relax for a bit, but the day wasn’t over yet. We made a quick stop at the grocery store for something I had been dying to try: Latvian cottage cheese chocolate. The hostel staff recommended the Kārums brand, and I quickly understood why.
It was amazing. I know it sounds dramatic, but I would go back to Latvia just for these! And I mean you probably get I am a touch dramatic by now, right? The soft, sweet cheese coated in chocolate honestly tasted more like cheesecake than anything else, and I love cheesecake. We picked up a few flavors: classic vanilla, coconut, and caramel. The coconut wasn’t our favorite, but the other two were absolutely fantastic. If you’re a dessert lover, this is a must-try when visiting Riga.
More of Riga & Unexpected Georgian Cuisine
After our chocolate adventure, we set out to finish exploring Riga and checked out Cat House, Three Brothers, Latvian Museum of Architecture, and The Freedom Monument. One fun little discovery: around the city, there are a few art installations spelling out “Riga,” each topped with an animal. We spotted a dog and a cat in particular. These signs are inspired by the animated movie Flow, which came out in 2024. It won Best Animated Feature and Best International film at the Oscars and was made in Latvia. I had watched the movie just a couple months ago, so it was fresh in my mind. It’s a unique film, mostly non-verbal, perfect for animation lovers or fans of off-the-beaten-track movies. It was really fun to see the city embrace the movie and show national pride in it.
For dinner, we actually went to a mall, which might sound funny, but this wasn’t your typical mall food court. It was more like Time Out Market or a really upscale food hall, and it blew us away. We went specifically for Georgian food (yes, in Latvia) after drooling over pictures of Hačapuri Bistro online.
It did not disappoint. We ordered the Lamb Royal and Khinkali with adjika and cheese sauce, and wow. I actually said out loud, “I have a new regret in my life, this is the first time I’ve ever had Georgian food! What have I been doing with my life?” Everything was fresh, cheesy, perfectly spiced, and absolutely delicious. While I’m sure there’s even better Georgian food elsewhere, this was incredible for first-timers. I would definitely recommend it, 4.7/5 from us.
Day 5: Vilnius, Lithuania (9/9)
The next morning, we left bright and early for our bus ride to Vilnius, Lithuania, wrapping up our Baltic state adventures. I was honestly so tired that I knocked out for the entire bus ride, while Wyatt planned a few things for us to do once we arrived.
We only had about 11 hours in Vilnius before catching a night bus back to Warsaw, which honestly was more than enough. We decided to take the day slow and enjoy the city at a relaxed pace. Our first stop was the Gates of Dawn, which is the entryway to the Old Town from the bus station. From there, we wandered to Town Hall Square.
Around lunchtime, we wanted something easy and satisfying, so we went to Pizza Marinara. And wow, this pizza was incredible. Surprisingly, it was our first pizza of the entire trip abroad, and it set a seriously high bar for anywhere we try pizza after this. I let Wyatt pick, and he chose the cooked prosciutto pizza, which I actually wasn’t initially excited about, but I was completely blown away. The crust was perfectly crunchy, the ingredients were high-quality, and the portion was just right for us to share.
To make the meal even better, they served Illy coffee. I’ve mentioned it a few times already, but I can’t resist it, just that perfect cup I’ve been missing! We got a black coffee, and Wyatt made a fantastic latte. Overall, I’d give this meal 4.5/5, a definite highlight of our short time in Vilnius.
After a couple of hours at Pizza Marinara, we continued exploring Vilnius and checked out several notable sights: the Office of the President of the Republic of Lithuania, Vilniaus universiteto muziejus, Vilnius Cathedral, and the Opera & Ballet Theater Fountains (Wyatt loves anything opera-related, so this was a must for him!).
The outside of Vilnius Cathedral was absolutely stunning, with its elegant columns and statues, it’s definitely worth stopping to admire if you’re in the city.
We also popped into a shop called Local House Amatų namai to grab a postcard, and it was completely adorable. Everything in the store felt traditionally Lithuanian, with beautiful patterns and colors. Quick disclaimer: I’m very particular about my postcards and souvenir shops. You won’t catch me wandering into a junky souvenir shop and grabbing the first postcard I see. I have a very specific style, cute/fun graphics, rarely photos, and unique designs only. So if you’re picky like me, trust me on this recommendation.
On our way to the Opera House, I kept noticing people walking around with gelato in hand. I couldn’t resist! We found the spot everyone was heading to: Angolo Italiano – Gelateria Caffè Vilnius. I honestly can’t remember the exact flavors we got, but they were creamy, rich, and absolutely delicious. There’s a big seating area inside, perfect for resting for a bit while enjoying your treat. I’d give this place 4.8/5, definitely a highlight for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Gediminas Castle & Bernardine Garden
After our gelato break, we continued exploring and made our way up to Gediminas Castle, perched on a big hill overlooking the city. Honestly, I don’t get the obsession with city viewpoints. Everywhere we go, they say, “Climb this hill, go to this church, see the overview of the city!” Maybe it’s just me, I like staying on the ground, unless we’re hiking mountains. Still, it was interesting to see just how big Vilnius is.
Also, a small rant: on the way up, there was a guy literally on my butt the entire climb, refusing to go around me. I was dying trying to keep pace. And on the way down, a completely different guy did the same thing, even after I moved over, he didn’t pass until I motioned him! If anyone can explain why this happens, I’m all ears.
Since we were taking the day slow, we decided to stroll through Bernardine Garden, a beautiful riverside park. Wyatt had a surprise for me, a stop at Bernardinų katė, where lots of friendly cats hang out. Now, for those who don’t know me, I’m a huge cat person. I freak out internally (mostly) over cats, similar to how some people react to dogs on the street. The only dog that rivals a cat for me? A Westie, don’t show me any other dog pictures unless it’s a Westie.
At first, walking through what is technically a graveyard, we didn’t spot a single cat. My spirits were sinking…until I heard a meow. I turned around and saw the sweetest gentleman cat, who immediately wanted pets. My heart melted.
Wyatt doesn’t particularly like cats, he claims he’s allergic, though I think he might be exaggerating, but he still brought me there knowing it would make me so happy. He’s such a caring and thoughtful husband, and I feel incredibly lucky to have him by my side.
Sweet Treats & Smash Burgers in Vilnius
With a few hours to kill before our night bus, we stumbled upon La Madeleine Bakery, a charming patisserie tucked away in a quieter part of town. The display of baked goods was breathtaking, and we couldn’t resist trying a couple.
First up was a raspberry custard tart. The shell was perfectly laminated, with flaky buttery layers reminiscent of a croissant. The custard was light and delicate, paired beautifully with the fresh raspberries. 4/5
But the real star? The pistachio croissant. As a pistachio lover, I knew I had to have it. The croissant shell was perfectly laminated, but the filling, pistachio butter, was heavenly. Smooth, rich, and nutty, it stole my heart. 4.9/5 I can’t recommend this bakery enough. Everything is high quality, and the quieter, local setting makes it feel special.
After lingering there for a couple of hours, we visited the Angel of Užupis, then realized it was time for dinner. Keeping it simple, we went to Smash by Mama Sakė Paeis. I got the OG Smash, Wyatt went for the XO Smash, and we split some fries.
The burgers were absolutely fantastic, easily among the best smash burgers I’ve had. The ingredients were high quality, juicy, and elevated with homemade sauces like chipotle and camembert cheese. We devoured every bite, what a perfect end to our food day in Vilnius! 4.8/5
Late-Night Drinks Before the Bus
After dinner, we still had a couple of hours to kill before our night bus, so we decided to find a bar near the bus station. We ended up at The Portobello Bar, which shares a courtyard with a nearby wine bar.
Honestly, the bar itself wasn’t anything special, I can’t really recommend it. The beer selection was very small, and after trying a cider that didn’t impress me, I switched to wine since nothing else sounded appealing. What was kind of fun, though, was the shared courtyard setup. People were taking food from the wine bar into Portobello, and some were bringing beer over to the wine bar. I think the two places are either owned by the same people or just really used to the customer exchange.
We spent our time chatting about our adventures in the Baltics and reflecting on our trip while waiting for our bus. A quiet, low-key end to a full day in Vilnius.
Overall Thoughts on the Baltic Countries
In conclusion, our time in the Baltic countries will definitely be a highlight I think about for years to come. The people were incredibly kind and welcoming, and the food; why does no one talk about that?! It was absolutely amazing. Each country is rich with its own history, culture, and traditions, making every stop feel unique.
I highly recommend taking a trip to Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. You won’t regret it, and you’ll come away with a deeper appreciation for this often-overlooked part of Europe. It’s a region that I haven’t heard many people, at least in my circles, talk about visiting, but trust me, you’re missing out!
We spent what I feel was the perfect amount of time in each place. Tallinn’s medieval streets and incredible food were unforgettable. Riga’s architecture took our breath away, and Vilnius’ grandness and array of sights pleasantly surprised us at every turn. The Baltics are a gem of Europe, and I can’t recommend exploring them enough.
Leave a Reply