Lizzy's Sweet Kitchen

For our first getaway from our home base in Wrocław, we decided to head to Kraków and Zakopane. I had been to Kraków once before in 2015 with my parents, but it was my husband’s first time experiencing this history-rich city.

Trip Summary

1. August 12
   • Arrived in Kraków
   • Stayed at Das Hostel the whole trip
2. August 13
   • Food Tour Day (Post in Linked Here)
3. August 14
   • Auschwitz
   • Wieliczka Salt Mine
4. August 15
   • Pierogi Festival
5. August 16
   • Left for Zakopane

Day 1 – See old town (8/12)

We woke up early on August 12th to catch a train from Wrocław to Kraków. Our first stop was the Kraków Barbican, which is on the way from the train station into Old Town. It felt like an easy landmark to dip our toes in before diving deeper into the city.

When we arrived, we dropped our bags at our hostel, Das Hostel, before setting out. The hostel itself was fine, nothing fancy, but it did the job. It was actually my first time staying in a hostel, and since we’re budget traveling this year, I knew I’d have to get used to it. We booked last-minute (most of this year abroad will be ad hoc trips), so we ended up in a 10-person bunk room. My only real complaint was the bathroom situation. No hooks, no shelves, nowhere to put your things while getting ready. It may sound nitpicky, but hey, I never claimed I wasn’t.

From there, we walked to the Old Town Square, which I thought was the perfect introduction to Kraków for my husband.

We started to get hungry, so we stopped for lunch at Pod Wawelem Kompania Kuflowa, a restaurant I had been to with my parents ten years ago. The food was delicious, though not quite the bargain meal you usually find in Poland. One thing to note, they’ll rattle off sides like, “x, y, and z, does that sound good?” You’ll say yes, but each one costs extra. We ended up in a full-blown food coma after they brought out so many plates. Still, we enjoyed it. I’d give it a solid 4/5.

To digest, we walked along the river and relaxed in the park before heading back to the main square to wander and take in Kraków’s beauty. We visited landmarks like St. Mary’s Basilica, the Cloth Hall, and the Town Hall Tower. By accident, we popped into the MNK Sukiennice while trying to buy a postcard, and to our surprise, admission was free on Tuesdays. We took our time walking around and admiring Polish art.

For dinner, we opted for Ali Baba Kebab shop, cheap, quick, and exactly what we needed after the pricier lunch. Honestly, it hit the spot. There are plenty of these kebab shops scattered across the city, and I’d definitely recommend one if you’re craving late-night or street food.

Day 2 – Food Tour Day (8/13)

The next morning, we kicked off the day with a food tour (Food Tour Post linked here). Food tours are one of my favorite things to do in a new city. They’re such a good way to learn about local cuisine, culture, and the stories behind the dishes. After the tour, we tried to take things slowly because the heat was relentless. We made our way to the Jewish Quarter and stopped inside Corpus Christi Basilica, which was stunning. Then we headed over to Wawel Castle. I had toured it with my parents in 2015, so Wyatt and I debated whether to go inside again. You can walk the grounds for free, which is what we did, taking photos and admiring the castle’s mix of architectural styles. It doesn’t look like your typical stone fortress, it’s more like a cluster of buildings put together, each with its own style. Wyatt was happy to skip the interior tour and relax, so we grabbed a couple of cold pops from Żabka and found a shady park bench. Later, we stopped at a casual bar, Ulica Krokodyli Pub & Cafe, for a drink before heading out to dinner.

Day 3 – Auschwitz and Wieliczka Salt Mine (8/14)

The following day was our Auschwitz and Wieliczka Salt Mine tour. We debated splitting them into two days, but the combo tour was cheaper, so we went with that. In hindsight, I don’t recommend doing both in one day, they’re each big experiences in their own right, and combining them left us physically tired and emotionally drained.

I had been to Auschwitz before with my parents, and to be honest, I didn’t feel a strong desire to return. It’s not an easy place to visit, it’s where pure evil unfolded. But it’s important to not block out the past. History is there to be remembered and learned from so it never repeats. It was meaningful for Wyatt to experience it for the first time. I won’t go into detail here, there are many incredible historians and researchers who can tell the story far better, but I will say this: standing there, it’s impossible to comprehend the suffering that happened, but you feel the weight of it. I recommend visiting at least once to understand the magnitude.

Next, we toured the Wieliczka Salt Mine, which was new for both of us. The guided tour lasted about an hour, and the underground world was fascinating. From statues carved entirely out of salt to the jaw-dropping chapel nearly 100 meters underground, it was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The chandeliers made of salt crystals were especially surreal. I highly recommend the salt mines, though again, I wish we had gone on a separate day so I could fully appreciate it without being emotionally and physically worn out.

Back in Kraków by 4 p.m., we went straight to dinner at Bar Smak, a spot I found thanks to an Instagram comment. We had walked past it several times, always seeing a long line, so we were glad to beat the rush. The prices were amazing, and the food was hearty and comforting. We both got soup (I had chicken noodle, Wyatt had tomato) and traditional mains. It was one of our favorite meals of the trip, delicious, filling, and budget-friendly. Easy 5/5.

Since we ate early, we relaxed back at the hostel before heading out to Wodka Bar for a tasting. We tried a flight of different flavors, most were hits, some definite misses, but it was a fun way to experience a bit of Kraków nightlife. On the way home, we grabbed a kielbasa from the famous Sausages from the blue Nysa, which I also wrote about in my food tour post.

Day 4 – Pierogi Festival (8/15)

Our final day in Kraków was all about the Pierogi Festival. Honestly, we both admitted we stayed one day too long in the city, but we wanted to time our visit with the festival. We woke up ready to eat way too many dumplings. In truth, about 90% of them were pretty underwhelming. We’ve had better pierogi in Poland (and I grew up eating them at home), so my standards are high. Some of the “modern” flavors, like matcha pierogi, were fun to try in concept, but not something I’d ever order again. Still, the atmosphere was wonderful, music, beer, people laughing, everyone united in their love for pierogis. I’d go again, but I wouldn’t plan a whole trip around it.

The heat pushed us back to the hostel for the afternoon, where we worked on some to-dos, before heading out again for dinner at Masala Madness, a little Indian spot we had been eyeing. It felt funny to be eating non-Polish food in Kraków, but since we were in Poland for six weeks, we knew we’d have plenty of time for traditional dishes. The food was freshly made and delicious, I ordered the masala bowl. Solid 4.8/5. We capped off the night with more pierogi from the festival, a slice of Szarlotka, and late-night lody (ice cream) while soaking up Old Town Square one last time.

Day 5 – Leaving Kraków (8/16)

Overall

We both really enjoyed our time in Kraków. It’s definitely one of the top cities in Poland to visit, though this trip we took it at a slower pace because of the heat, our budget, and the fact that I had been before. Kraków is beautiful, history-rich, and full of things to see and do. I highly recommend it to anyone looking to explore Polish history, enjoy great food, or simply take in the charm of one of Poland’s most beloved cities.