Lizzy's Sweet Kitchen

My husband and I set off for Tatra National Park after our trip to Krakow. I learned about the Tatra mountain range while searching for national parks in Poland. I love national parks, nature, and mountains (we did live in Denver before this trip, after all), so I knew we had to go. From what I read, the easiest way to reach them was through Krakow, so we bundled the two trips together.

One of the great things I’ve noticed about Europe in general is that there’s usually a train to wherever you want to go, especially tourist spots. Sure enough, we hopped on a two-hour train from Krakow to Zakopane, and it couldn’t have been easier.

Trip Summary

1. August 16
   • Arrived in Zakopane via train from Kraków
   • Stayed at Olczański Zakątek the whole trip
   • Ate at HopCup Pizza & Bar for dinner
2. August 17
   • Hiked Kuźnice – Boczań – Hala Gąsienicowa – Jaworzynka Valley trail
   • Ate at Hostel Murowaniec for lunch in the mountains
   • Walked Krupówki Street
   • Ate at Stek Chałupa for dinner
3. August 18
   • Hiked Kuźnice – Hala Gąsienicowa – Kasprowy Wierch – Mały Kościelec route
4. August 19
   • Ate at Stek Chałupa for lunch (their burger bar)
   • Went back to Wrocław

Where We Stayed

We booked Olczański Zakątek, which was nice enough. We had our own bathroom and kitchenette, luxuries I greatly appreciated after staying in a hostel for the first time. The only weird part was that there was no check-in desk. Instead, you had to message the staff through the booking.com app. Not ideal, because if we didn’t have service, we’d basically be locked out. They also never sent instructions ahead of time, which added to the awkwardness. Still, it did the job, and I’d give it a solid 4/5. The location was a little far from the center and national park entrances, but Zakopane has a great bus system, so it wasn’t a problem.

Day 1 – Arrival & Pizza Perfection in Zakopane (8/16)

We arrived mid-afternoon, settled in, and went out for dinner at HopCup Pizza & Bar, tucked in more of a residential area. The pizza was absolutely amazing, we ordered the Diabolo with garlic sauce, and it was perfection. Crispy crust, flavorful toppings, everything you want in pizza. Easy 5/5.

Day 2 – Fireweed Dreams on the Hala Gąsienicowa Trail  (8/17)

The next morning we set out for the Kuźnice – Boczań – Hala Gąsienicowa – Jaworzynka Valley trail (5.7 miles, 2,093 ft elevation gain). We honestly didn’t do much research before our Zakopane trip, which was a rookie mistake. But in our defense, this was our first adventure in our year abroad, and we were still in post-move exhaustion mode.

Here’s the thing: every trail in Tatra National Park is rated either moderate or hard. And “moderate” is generous. Unlike US national parks, there are no beginner-friendly strolls or ADA-compliant options. My PSA: if you’re not into serious hiking, the Tatras might not be your vibe. Most people I know would’ve tapped out. And believe me, I’m not bragging, we struggled too.

Still, the trail was gorgeous. Cloudy skies meant fewer long-range mountain views, but then came the flowers, oh my gosh, the flowers. About halfway through, Wyatt wandered into a meadow of pink fireweed blossoms, and it looked like something out of a dream. Waves of magenta flowers stretching across the slopes, with mountains as a backdrop. It was one of those magical travel moments where you just stop, take a million photos, and wonder if you accidentally stepped into a fairytale.

As we continued, we found even more fireweed blanketing Dolina Gąsienicowa, and it turned the whole valley into a sea of pink. Even though the hike was tough, those flowers made every step worth it.

We eventually reached Hostel Murowaniec, where, surprise, they had food. It’s cash only, but tons of hikers stop here to refuel. We ordered kotlet schabowy, soup, and an apple pie that I’m still dreaming about. Maybe it was the exhaustion, but it tasted incredible. After lunch, we hiked down and then wandered Zakopane’s downtown strip, Krupówki Street, which is full of restaurants, shops, and cheese vendors selling Poland’s famous smoked mountain cheese, oscypek.

Day 3 – Gondola Ride & Our Hardest Hike Yet (8/18)

The next day we bought gondola tickets and planned a modified version of the Kuźnice – Hala Gąsienicowa – Kasprowy Wierch – Mały Kościelec route (11.6 miles, 4,655 ft elevation gain). Since we’d already done the descent into the valley the day before, we wanted to skip that part and start higher up.

Funny thing: the gondola ticket had a return time printed on it. You’re technically supposed to come back down within 2.5 hours unless you buy another ticket. Two and a half hours isn’t enough for any real hiking, so we figured we’d just pay extra later. Spoiler: we never made it back to the gondola anyway.

This hike was brutal. At one point, I swore we’d gone at least three miles, but Wyatt checked and we’d done… one mile. In two hours. Humbling. The terrain is basically jagged rocks stabbing into your feet the whole way. And we weren’t wearing cheap shoes, we had Merrell Moab 3s, and even they couldn’t fully protect us.

Still, the views were stunning. We pushed through to reach the alpine lakes, including CzarnyStaw Gąsienicowy, which was the highlight we’d been aiming for. But by then we knew we wouldn’t have time to loop back before the gondola closed. Instead, we retraced our steps down the same path as the day before, familiar, but at least doable. By the end of the day, we clocked 10 miles and over 4,600 ft of elevation, the hardest hike we’ve ever done.

I know I sound like I’m complaining (and I kind of am), but it’s more of a funny, “wow, that destroyed us” kind of complaining. The Tatras completely kicked our butts, but in the best way.

That night, we were so wiped that we grabbed hot dogs at Zabaka (yes, the same chain I reviewed in Krakow). Paired with a bottle of wine, it was the perfect recovery meal.

Day Four – Folk Dancing, Smash Burgers & Farewell (8/19)

On our last day, before heading out on a six-hour train back to Wrocław, we caught part of a folk festival with traditional dances. For lunch, we returned to the same restaurant, Stek Chałupa, from earlier but tried their burger bar this time. The smash burger was juicy, flavorful, and well-priced. Another 4.5/5.

The train ride back wasn’t bad at all, I love trains because you can work, enjoy the scenery, and still get Wi-Fi. Plus, they don’t make me motion sick like every other mode of transport.

Overall

Our time in Zakopane was absolutely amazing. Yes, the hikes humbled us, but the scenery is jaw-dropping, the fireweed flowers were unforgettable, the mountain cheese is delicious, and the whole area is worth experiencing at least once. Just know what you’re getting into: these hikes are not casual strolls, but if you’re up for the challenge, you’ll be rewarded. And as mountain people, it felt so good to be surrounded by peaks again.